Race Ready

Race Ready Bike Preparation.

So in a just over a weeks time I shall be throwing the bike into the back of the van (well it travels with me always anyway) and heading up to the Yorkshire Dales for the Ard Rock Enduro. This will be the third year I have entered. Yet it'll be the first time I have competed! Broken ankles over the last two years have put a stop to it. This year, *touching lots of wood*, I will be making the journey and having an epic bike festival weekend with mates.

Ard Rock 2018. Yes I wrote this post before I managed to post it.. Photo Credit: Doc Ward

So I thought I'd give my take on setting up the average Joe's mountain bike for a race. I haven't gone full board, but making sure she sings sweetly is still the goal.

As always, give her a good soap up and bathe her off. You want your bike clean from the worst before stripping it down ready for a more in-depth clean. I was fortunate to win a Muc-Off valet kit last year so this makes the majority of my cleaning kit. But recently Peaty's Loam Foam takes on the main grunt of the work.

Sian showing of some Peaty's products

Muc-Off Ultimate Valet kit

I then always like to take both wheels out, chain off and remove the cassette from the wheel. Out comes the bike specific degreaser and I spray all over the rear derailleur, cassette and chainring. Then with a stiff small brush I agitate the tough stuff and let it sit briefly. Give it all a good rinse off with water then wipe down afterwards. Sometimes a second degreasing is needed and if so go for it. Just avoid getting too much into the area of any bearings! Once all cleaned up I throw on some silicone shine or similar and then wipe all excess off.

Whilst the wheels are off, unless recently done, get the tyre off and check your tubeless sealant. Then clean and top up as necessary. Give a run over the spokes to make sure they are all under tension. Check tyre pressures, even though these may change on race day. Sometimes I would give the discs a clean and rub over, but I tend to avoid this if its not needed. 

Brakes. Get the pads out, check for wear and give them a clean off on some sandpaper. Occasionally a little brake cleaner and a flame will burn off any contaminants. Even if you're brakes are feeling good, and you are competent to do so, bleed them and refresh the fluid in the system. I use some Motul 600 for my Sram Guide brakes. Generally used on top end motorbikes, so its spot on for our mountain bikes! Give them a bleed by manufacturers instructions. 

Suspension. Check pressures, make sure they are what you have set them at or its always handy to have an idea. You can perform a seal service on the fork lowers and the air sleeve of the shock. Mine are running nicely so all I done was give the top of the seals and rings a lube. I recently got myself some Oneball bike fork stanchion oil. Gently fit a cable tie into the fork seals and then run some of the oil down the tie into the seal all around. Similar with the shock. Then cycle the suspension (may be easier once wheels are back in...) and wipe of any excess. Welcome to plushness. (you can put a little on your dropper too to keep the seals nice and hydrated and running smooth.)

One-Ball suspension oil bring plushness back to life

Playing with Volume spacers to up some
progression for some upcoming racing

Next I built the bike back up, regressing axles and freewheels as I go. Chain is currently sitting in a bath of chain lube waiting a thorough wipe down and refit. As you do up your axles, carry out a bolt check. You can follow the good old fashion 'M' method, or just make sure you don't miss anything. I have a tendency to always find my rear mech loose... And don't forget to check for play in your bottom bracket.

Once the chain is back on after having a nice bath and wipe down, slap it on ready for some drivetrain check. So now you can either put a new gear cable inner and outer on, or see how yours is performing. I was lazy and the gear cable ran smoothly through out (benefit of one cable outer the whole length), I just re-set up the gears. So as you typically would give the gears a good run up and down the cassette making sure it will shift on each ring at the back in both directions. If not give it some adjustments until you hit the sweet spot. 

Talking of cables, if you have a cable actuated dropper post like I do, make sure this is running smoothly and especially check the lever end for any fraying or damage. You don't want your seat at full height when riding downhill because the cable snapped....this has happened to me before...

A few little tweaks and hacks you can do to extra prepare your steed is to find ways of making her quiet. Some chain slapper tape or velcro can be ideal on your chain stay to reduce chain slap noise. And it protects your frame. Where possible fit some small clips to keep cables and hoses tidy and linked together if possible to stop any slapping there. Think whether you will need a small mudguard on the front to stop any spray. What I also like to do is fit some tape to the back of the fork arch to stop any crud building up in the gaps and then also seeping into the fork seals. Plus it looks so Pro.

Then all there is to do is give a little carpark test. Test your brakes, have a bounce up and down and there you have it. Hopefully a sweet race ready machine!

Obviously this is not what the Pro's would generally do. And if you have time and are serious and results focused I would advise doing a lot more. But this time round, partly through laziness and wanting to ride in the mean time too the above is roughly what I done. It covers what I feel are important and that can affect you race day if not been checked or prepared before hand. 

Also remember, your bike may be prepped, but you need to make sure you are too.

Proper,

Preparation,

Prevents,

Piss,

Poor,

Performance.

What Kit

A discussion many riders have. What do I take with me on a ride?

This will depend on where you are riding and for what length you are riding. Also down to what bikes you have and who else is in your group. We all have that one friend who forgets the one thing they will need!

We obviously can't carry everything we might ever need. No-one is going to carry a spare wheel, a new frame, extra cassette. Well no-one that I ride with anyway!😂


The following are my personal preferences, and I am forever adding, removing, changing what I take and have with me.

The Minimalistic.

For short spins that stay relatively local to home or where you've parked. Bikeparks and trail centres, where all runs will finish at the car. Basically places that you are rarely further than 30 mins away from your base point, or are easily accessible to get back. Or maybe those rides near bike shops that may offer a hand or you can easily buy the spare or borrow the tool you require. I even often run my luck and go for longer rides with just this kit, especially if I know the area and terrain and don't expect to be pushing the bike hard.

This minimalistic load out is what I tend to try and carry on the bike, not on myself. I will not however run a saddle bag! So below is what I do!

On my Yeti, I run the OneUp Components EDC. This is permanently secured in the steerer of my bike. The EDC involves a multi-tool, chain breaker, spare chain links and I have a CO2 canister fitted. You can replace the CO2 and customer your load out with other bits from their EDC catalogue or add the capsule and throw in anything you feel you will require and some dollar. The EDC has proved to be hugely valuable and makes my life so much easier. It also takes away the large bulk of a multi-tool out of my pocket or bag, leaving me more space and more comfort. And as I mentioned before, it is always there.

I also invested in the Backcountry Research Mutherload Strap. This is a well made, hard wearing strap with 2 elastic loops and some hardcore velcro. It allows you to buckle numerous bits of kit to your bike frame securely and with no rattle! I only strap a 29" inner tube to my frame, but it provides plenty of options to add in more as necessary. (Yes I said 29er tube, it will fit any size wheel you have! Trust me.)

And then we have the trusty old bottle cage. They are making a comeback! Sadly on the SB6 its below the downtube, so often in prime line of fire from the front tyre roost. But it allows me to take some water or similar for the ride. I also throw in some Snow Grenade OffGrid tablets into the water for some extra oomph for the ride.

Lastly, (one downfall of the EDC) is that I got to throw a small CO2 head into my pocket so I can use the CO2 canister when on a ride. The EDC pump set up you can get does include one, but not the steerer version. I like the Lezyne CO2 head as it allows you to get more than one use out of the canister if you didn't require it all the first time. plus its small and unobtrusive.

One more thing...Bank card or cash. Just incase. Oh and your phone, again just incase, and for making some epic insta bangers!👊 (@andydtk238 go check mine out)

The Semi.

The Semi incorporates all of whats in the Minimalistic but requires that bit more. It is for those rides that take a number of hours up to the best part of a day. Places you know the terrain already or you feel confident on the weather and area. Even down to those rides you will be stopping somewhere for lunch, so not necessary to carry extra rations with you.

Having become so comfortable riding pack-less, I struggle to even contemplate the thought of putting a bag on again to go riding. As this load out is generally for those slightly longer rides, I will tend to wear a set of bibs, hidden far away from anyones eyes, underneath my shorts and jerseys. It shall never be worn solo! It was purely decided upon for the fact, I DO NOT WANT TO WEAR A PACK, if possible! I have the Yeti Enduro Bib. It has 3 ideal pockets on the back for carrying some extra kit or provisions. Also a pocket on each thigh for gels or whatever. But its under my shorts, I am not dealing with that hassle!

Backcountry Research do a brilliant small bag/pouch, called the Tulbag. Its small enough to fit in your hands, but roomy enough to fit plenty of small bits and pieces. A very solid structure with a nice grippy backing to get it in place and in your hand on those muddier or days. When filled it fits comfortably into one of the bibs back pockets.

In the Tulbag I pack:

Tyre lever wrapped in Tape.

Gear cable

4 cut down Cable ties (zip-ties)

Tubeless valve

Presta valve core

Valve core remover

2 x CO2 canisters (only one would be necessary)

Dynaplug Racer tyre plug kit. For those holes that sealant will not seal.

Spare tyre plugs - various sizes

Chain lube

And then the CO2 head will get put in the Tulbag too.

I will also take an additional water bottle for longer rides. Well I try to anyway, I should really drink more water, in general. I have a soft water bottle that can be folded down as its emptied so its not taking up excessive amounts of space when empty. It also allows it to fit comfortably in another one of the back pockets on my bibs.

These rides I will often chuck some energy cubes or a flapjack bar, maybe even just some fruit pastilles in a pocket to keep my fuel levels up whilst riding.

The Full Whack.

This load out is all the above, but will then provide the extra bits and pieces to look after you when out for a full day or when you expect to particular be hard on the bike. When you will take lunch and not be trusting of the weather.

I have two stages of this load out. They are virtually the same, but its down to how its carried.

This is going to be controversial, just like the bottle cage... Bum Bags, Fanny Packs, Lumbar Bags. Whatever you choose to call them. They are becoming more popular and for very good reason. Better ventilation, more comfort, keeps your centre of gravity lower, and secure to your waist and hips. Keeps your back free for more movement and for the ventilation. They can be hidden under your  baggy jersey or can be worn proudly on top #fannypackersftw.

It is a recent move for me, purely as some longer rides are up and coming and I feel the big pack will be unnecessary. Plus, I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE A PACK ON. So this is as near as I can go to no pack, with a pack...

I went for the Dakine Hot Laps 5l. It comes with a 2l hydration system that the mouth piece magnetically locks in place around your waist. It has a main pocket with various pouches and divisions for your stuff. Two straps underneath for pads or a jacket to be held in place. which can also be used to compress the pack as you drink the water or empty the pack. There are two more straps on the side for the same use. It also has a wide strap for around your waist with some padding on each side. Do not go for those narrow waist straps that try cutting you in half!!

So in the bum bag I will add the Tulbag from The Semi opposed to in my bibs. I will then also include a some bits and pieces I feel necessary for the ride. 

Some examples can be:

Spare mech hangar

Another tube

A piece of card to use incase of a sidewall tear to the tyre

Small first aid kit

Some extra food, bars, energy in whatever form you prefer.

Waterproof jacket

Spare gloves

I also have an Evoc FR Trail Team 20l backpack. Its seen better days and has had a tough life, buts its held in well. Even during a motorbike accident I had on holiday two years ago. This pack obviously allows me to carry much more extra kit as necessary. It has a 3l hydration bladder. And also a handy emergency whistle built into the chest strap. 

Examples can be (extra to above):

Various layers of clothing

Waterproofs

Hand Pump

Larger food items and extra drink, extra snacks

Extra bike spares, for you and for your riding buddies

A Full Face helmet can be strapped in place so you can swap between your trail lid or your full face depending on the trail ahead

Mechanics gloves

Larger more in-depth first aid kit

Portable power pack

Map and compass as well as a GPS

Bike lights

You are only restricted to your imagination and the size of your pack. It is always better to carry more than you will need. Be prepared for the worst. But try not to head over the top either and take that spare bike frame you have chilling at home... Consider the days ride, the environment, the weather, the terrain. Know your emergency numbers and protocols for the area. Bigger days are better to ride within your comfort zone, especially when in very remote areas. Obviously when riding in a group you can spread some of the kit between you all. But do not rely on others to have everything you will need. Spread the load, but take the important things too. It is your responsibility too.

You can then go onto bigger packs for bigger days, multi days on the bike. For my general day to day rides the above covers the majority of my riding. 

If you think I am missing anything comment below and let me know. I am forever up for new ideas and things I can buy for my bike 😁

Bike Check

2018 Yeti Cycles SB6 Turq

#andyrude

Air's Rock at Laggan Wolftrax, Scotland.

So what do we have here. A waste of money to many or at least too much money for a bike. But to myself, a true investment. An investment into my life, adventures, adrenaline and pure joy.

Like we say, 'You cannot buy happiness, however you can buy a bike and thats damn close'.

The Bike.

I ride a 2018 Yeti Cycles SB6 Turq. It is a trail slaying machine. Full carbon enduro bike that will challenge anything you throw at it. With 6" travel in the rear and 160mm upfront, this sled destroys the mountains (maybe not with me on top, but it has the potential!). It is a bike that is built for the downhills, but will still climb like a goat. 

On top of Kinnoul in 2017. Yes some things have changed since ☺

Tech Specs.

Travel - 6.0" (152mm)

Frame Weight - 6.05lbs (2.75kg)

Wheel Size - 27.5"

Frame Size - Medium

Rear Shock - 8.5" x 2.5"

Bottom Bracket - PF92

Rear Wheel - 148mm x 12mm (Boost)

Front Derailleur - D-Type Side Swing (WHHYY would you even..)

Seatpost - 30.9mm

Specifications.

So as anyone with the passion for two wheels no matter what form that is. Will understand the drive to make that bike your own and to change and upgrade as much as possible and often as possible.

So as off July 2018 here are the details.

Frame - 2018 Yeti Cycles SB6 Turq series

Fork - Fox Factory 36s 160mm travel Kashima with custom graphics from Slik Graphics

Shock - Fox Factory DPX2 Kashima

Wheelset - DT Swiss 350 hub with XM481 Rim

Rear Derailleur - Sram XO1 Eagle 12 speed

Shifter - Sram XO1 Eagle

Crankset - Sram XO1 DUB Direct Mount Crankset

Chainring - One Up Components Direct Mount Switch Oval chainring 34t

Bottom Bracket - Sram DUB PF92

Chain - Sram GX  Eagle

Brakes - Sram Guide RSC

Rotors - Sram Centerline 180mm front and rear.

Seat Post - Fox Transfer 

Front Tyre - Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5"

Rear Tyre - Maxxis Aggressor 2.3"

Headset - Cane Creek 40 inset taper

Handlebar - Yeti Turq Carbon 35 x 800mm (considering cutting them down)

Stem - RaceFace Turbine Basic 35 x 50mm

Grips - Ergon GE1 Evo Factory

Seat - WTB custom Yeti saddle

Pedals - Crankbrothers Mallet E 

Extras.

Cushcore fitted to both front and rear tyres. Running approx. 20-23psi in each tyre.

Peatys Tubeless Sealant.

One Up Components EDC tool mounted in the steerer post.

One Up Components chain guide in orange.

Backcountry Research  Mutherload strap.

Invisiframe frame protection.

Quarq/Sram Shockwiz suspension tuning system.

Things are often being played with and changed. I am a tech geek and a bike geek, I love it all and seeing whats new in the world of mountain bikes. 

In time I will do a more detailed post on features of the bike or on parts I have bought. But for now, I am going to go ride my damn bike!

Any questions or thoughts, please leave them in a comment below. And be sure to check my instagram where you can be the first to find out new and exciting things happening with the trusty steed.

Important mid-ride nutrition at Cannock Chase