Race Ready Bike Preparation.
So in a just over a weeks time I shall be throwing the bike into the back of the van (well it travels with me always anyway) and heading up to the Yorkshire Dales for the Ard Rock Enduro. This will be the third year I have entered. Yet it'll be the first time I have competed! Broken ankles over the last two years have put a stop to it. This year, *touching lots of wood*, I will be making the journey and having an epic bike festival weekend with mates.
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| Ard Rock 2018. Yes I wrote this post before I managed to post it.. Photo Credit: Doc Ward |
So I thought I'd give my take on setting up the average Joe's mountain bike for a race. I haven't gone full board, but making sure she sings sweetly is still the goal.
As always, give her a good soap up and bathe her off. You want your bike clean from the worst before stripping it down ready for a more in-depth clean. I was fortunate to win a Muc-Off valet kit last year so this makes the majority of my cleaning kit. But recently Peaty's Loam Foam takes on the main grunt of the work.
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| Sian showing of some Peaty's products |
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| Muc-Off Ultimate Valet kit |
I then always like to take both wheels out, chain off and remove the cassette from the wheel. Out comes the bike specific degreaser and I spray all over the rear derailleur, cassette and chainring. Then with a stiff small brush I agitate the tough stuff and let it sit briefly. Give it all a good rinse off with water then wipe down afterwards. Sometimes a second degreasing is needed and if so go for it. Just avoid getting too much into the area of any bearings! Once all cleaned up I throw on some silicone shine or similar and then wipe all excess off.
Whilst the wheels are off, unless recently done, get the tyre off and check your tubeless sealant. Then clean and top up as necessary. Give a run over the spokes to make sure they are all under tension. Check tyre pressures, even though these may change on race day. Sometimes I would give the discs a clean and rub over, but I tend to avoid this if its not needed.
Brakes. Get the pads out, check for wear and give them a clean off on some sandpaper. Occasionally a little brake cleaner and a flame will burn off any contaminants. Even if you're brakes are feeling good, and you are competent to do so, bleed them and refresh the fluid in the system. I use some Motul 600 for my Sram Guide brakes. Generally used on top end motorbikes, so its spot on for our mountain bikes! Give them a bleed by manufacturers instructions.
Suspension. Check pressures, make sure they are what you have set them at or its always handy to have an idea. You can perform a seal service on the fork lowers and the air sleeve of the shock. Mine are running nicely so all I done was give the top of the seals and rings a lube. I recently got myself some Oneball bike fork stanchion oil. Gently fit a cable tie into the fork seals and then run some of the oil down the tie into the seal all around. Similar with the shock. Then cycle the suspension (may be easier once wheels are back in...) and wipe of any excess. Welcome to plushness. (you can put a little on your dropper too to keep the seals nice and hydrated and running smooth.)
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| One-Ball suspension oil bring plushness back to life |
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| Playing with Volume spacers to up some progression for some upcoming racing |
Next I built the bike back up, regressing axles and freewheels as I go. Chain is currently sitting in a bath of chain lube waiting a thorough wipe down and refit. As you do up your axles, carry out a bolt check. You can follow the good old fashion 'M' method, or just make sure you don't miss anything. I have a tendency to always find my rear mech loose... And don't forget to check for play in your bottom bracket.
Once the chain is back on after having a nice bath and wipe down, slap it on ready for some drivetrain check. So now you can either put a new gear cable inner and outer on, or see how yours is performing. I was lazy and the gear cable ran smoothly through out (benefit of one cable outer the whole length), I just re-set up the gears. So as you typically would give the gears a good run up and down the cassette making sure it will shift on each ring at the back in both directions. If not give it some adjustments until you hit the sweet spot.
Talking of cables, if you have a cable actuated dropper post like I do, make sure this is running smoothly and especially check the lever end for any fraying or damage. You don't want your seat at full height when riding downhill because the cable snapped....this has happened to me before...
A few little tweaks and hacks you can do to extra prepare your steed is to find ways of making her quiet. Some chain slapper tape or velcro can be ideal on your chain stay to reduce chain slap noise. And it protects your frame. Where possible fit some small clips to keep cables and hoses tidy and linked together if possible to stop any slapping there. Think whether you will need a small mudguard on the front to stop any spray. What I also like to do is fit some tape to the back of the fork arch to stop any crud building up in the gaps and then also seeping into the fork seals. Plus it looks so Pro.
Then all there is to do is give a little carpark test. Test your brakes, have a bounce up and down and there you have it. Hopefully a sweet race ready machine!
Obviously this is not what the Pro's would generally do. And if you have time and are serious and results focused I would advise doing a lot more. But this time round, partly through laziness and wanting to ride in the mean time too the above is roughly what I done. It covers what I feel are important and that can affect you race day if not been checked or prepared before hand.
Also remember, your bike may be prepped, but you need to make sure you are too.
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